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THE FORAGER
chef tested hard to find and unusual products

TOQUE OF SAN DEIGO
By Terryl Gavre


The San Diego Restaurant Scene

Mark your calendars and make your reservations early for the 215th Annual USCD Cancer Research Center Gala, "Savoir Flaire–A Night in Provence," The benefit will take place Saturday, May 18th at the Sheraton San Diego Hotel and Marina. The evening will include a cocktail reception with a culinary sampling from some of the Nation's top chefs followed by a formal sit-down dinner prepared by Chef Steven Black and staff at the Sheraton Hotel and Marina. Participating celebrity chefs include Riko Bartolome, The Grill at Maderas; Traci Des Jardines, Jardinier San Francisco; Jean- Michel Diot, Tapenade; Trey Foshee, George's at the Cove; Michelle Gayer, Charlie Trotters Chicago; Carlton Greenawalt, 150 Grand; Bernard Guillas, The Marine Room; Nancy Oakes, Boulevard-San Francisco; Patrick Pontsaty, El Bizchocho; Kent Rathbun, Abacus-Dallas; Kevin Rathbun, Nava-Atlanta; Michael Stebner, 910; Stephen Window, Roppongi; and Martin Woesle, Mille Fleurs. Tickets are $300 per person and can be purchased by calling 858 822-0023.

150 Grand groupies Jones'n for Bartolome's fare can find him at The Grill at Maderas, a new free-standing restaurant located in Poway at the Rolling Hills Golf Club at Heritage Estates. Notice I didn't say Golf and Country Club. It's just a restaurant that happens to be situated on a golf course. It is indeed open to the public, but call to save your scat as this little beauty only has 50 seats (although a patio is in the works for summer). When I asked Riko what type of cuisine he was servin'up out there, he said "not your normal country club fare, that's for sure:' So if you can forget about the "Chicken Cordon Bleu" and "Beef Wellington" and you're game for some upscale, eclectic Pacific Rim with a splash of French influence, Maderas should surely flip your little golf skirt.

Stepping into Riko's former position as "top toque" at 150 Grand is his former sous chef, Carlton Greenawalt.

In the "What ever happened to" column, I received an e-mail from a chef in West Virginia who was trying to locate former Bayou Bar and Grill Chef Sean Hartigan. I knew that Hartigan had left the Bayou six years ago and had been working as executive chef at World Famous for the past several years. After a few phone calls I learned that Hartigan has, for the time being anyway, left the restaurant business for the "hair" business. Hartigan, who was known to sport hair styles more befitting an 80's band member than a sautÈ pan handler, owns and operates the hair salon Hairspray in Hillcrest. Sean and his wife Annie bought the salon a year ago.

Sean was replaced at World Famous by his former sous chef, Chris "Shaggy" Bates.

And what about that Fabio-esk chef of yesteryear, Jeff Burt?

Remember him, the quiet, ponytailed guy in white, who worked the exhibition kitchen of Prego for most of the nineties and caused me and my then-boyfriend to create a "scene" at the restaurant involving, an empty wine glass, a stained shirt and many extra napkins because I was smiling at Burt when I "should have been smiling at my escort." With delight, l announce that Burt can be found diligently working in the kitchen of Scalini Restaurant in Del Mar. Burt made the move to Scalini late last year after several a years out of town working with the Spectrum Foods Group (Prego, Tutto Mare) and a year of consulting.

Another long gone but not forgotten favorite, Gunther Emathinger, who, in the late 80's, was chef and owner of Falco Restaurant (another eatery that opened too early in the Gaslamp) can be found working as Regional Chef for Karl Strauss Breweries. Gunther hires and trains all company chefs and is responsible for implementing all menus. Speaking of menus, l just experienced Gunther's handiwork at the Karl Strauss Brewery.

Gardens Restaurant in Sorrento Mesa. We enjoyed a wonderful Sunday brunch last month and it's a great "family value" at $18.95 for adults and $8.95 for kids. Compared to most Sunday brunches, this a one rocks for the money, featuring chilled shrimp, seared rare ahi tuna with wasabi dipping sauces, wonderful entrees, a carving station, an omelet station, pancakes, waffles and all the trimmings plus unlimited champagne!

You may recall that, about six years ago, Bill Evans of Evans Hotel Group (Catamaran, Bahia) purchased the fledgling Lodge at Torrey Pines, an inn perched on the beautiful Torrey Pines Reserve overlooking the Torrey Pines Golf Course and the big blue Pacific Ocean. What you may not know is that about a year and a half ago they took a bulldozer to the property and almost completely flattened all 75 rooms and the properties surrounding buildings. They hired a team of internationally acclaimed architects and designers and have nearly completed a $57 million renovation. The "New Lodge at Torrey Pines" will be a 175-room four-star property featuring a ballroom, 3,500 square feet of meeting space, a free-standing restaurant and a 9,500 square-foot state of the art spa. Of the 175 rooms, 45 will overlook the golf course, have fireplaces and many will have balconies. The architecture, in keeping with the surroundings, will be Craftsman style. The Stickley Company has been commissioned to make custom furniture for the lobby areas and VIP suites. A. R Valentien, the signature restaurant at the lodge, is named after the well known San Diego impressionist renowned for his watercolors of San Diego flora. The restaurant boasts "cuisine ala minute," meaning market driven, fresh available produce with minimal handling. Jeff Jackson, who most recently was executive chef at Shutters Beach House in Santa Monica, will serve as executive chef. The restaurant will feature what Jackson describes as "truly California cuisine" and serve only California wines. The room rates are expected to start at $350 per night. A soft opening is scheduled for the end of March and the Lodge will open to the public in early April.

Next time you're in La Jolla, drop in the new Ale and Ocean, located at 7536 Fay Avenue. It took over the old La Jolla Brewing Company space almost two years ago but got caught up in the red tape of the permitting process. The renovation was finally completed and doors opened in early December. The London-ish interiors take advantage of the outrageously high ceilings and take sleek minimalism to its stylish peak. A Formica-paneled wall depicting stones meets maple veneer and a mahogany bar. The owners, a Vancouver based company, UR.C., also own and operate Morrisey, an Irish Pub, laci, an Italian restaurant and the very hip (and hot) a Ginger Sixty-Two, which was recently rented for a night by Angelina Jolie for a private party. The menu features "casual urban-contemporary cuisine" featuring a raw oyster bar and fresh seafood. Ale and Ocean serves late "Friday and Saturday until midnight.

Look for a new restaurant from the people who brought us Sbicca Restaurant in Del Mar. Dan and Susan Sbicca took over the former Le Peep space in Encinitas at the Encinitas Lumberyard in January and after a 3-4 month renovation will present Meritage in early May. Describing the fare as a "unique blend of flavors" and the atmosphere as "casual fine a dining" the menu will be moderately priced and offer "value oriented dishes" with an "approachable" wine list. Susan Sbicca will have her hands full serving as executive chef for both Sbicca and Meritage but will be relying on the help of Sbicca Chef de Cuisine, Jason Holmes to keep things running smooth in Del Mar.



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